PAINT COLOR IDEAS: The Pottery Barn Effect

Jennifer H. asked us, "What paint colors work best in small rooms?"

Unfortunately, Jennifer didn't send us any pictures of what room she was trying to paint 

(it must be a secret... shhhh, don't tell anyone she's thinking about painting)
That being the case, I'm going to divulge a few tricks that I use to make almost ANY paint color look better.
I call it, The Pottery Barn Effect.

"But Daniel! I don't even shop at the Pottery Barn!"
Settle down...it's okay, neither do I. What I'm referring to is something I noticed years ago in the way Pottery barn presents its products in its advertising.
Here, let me pull up a few images:

Okay, I'm surrounded by a bunch of 'Pottery Barn-esque' pictures. Keep in mind, not every color shown is a particular favorite of mine but they don't have to be. The images are designed to do one thing,
Make The Furniture Look Good.

The interesting thing I started to notice many years ago is that they use a very specific design style in a lot of their catalogs. Look past the furniture and focus just on the rooms, there are a few elements they tend incorporate in the background to help make their furniture look its best.
Notice any similarities yet? Here's what I noticed:

• Lots of White Trim
• Flat colored walls

Most of the rooms that have "The Pottery Barn Effect" usually have flat white ceilings as well.
For some reason, I've chosen not to show any examples of that in these pictures.

I blame  Jennifer H. She started this whole
let's-not-submit-photos thing. I just didn't want her to feel left out.
Do those elements really make THAT much of a difference? Well, you decide. Take a look at the image below.

  

How many of you have seen or own a living space like this?

I'm sorry but, 1982 called and wants their everything back. Golden oak stain on the stairs, chair rails, baseboards, doors & windows.... don't stare at that picture too long, I think it comes with a Surgeon General's warning.
There is just nothing inviting about those harsh, dark, trim lines breaking up every single visual aspect of the room. It kind of reminds me of my parents old Country Squire station wagon.

Another open living space with "The Pottery Barn Effect"

Doesn't that just make your stomach feel a little better? (I know, you're welcome)
So how do we quickly achieve this effect?

Here are a couple of simple rules to follow when updating a room for paint

  

TRIM

Replace any existing baseboard, door & window casings with wider trim.


A lot of houses come with a traditional 2 1/2" colonial molding, try stepping it up to a 3 1/2" or maybe a belly-mold with bulls-eyes.
What's a belly mold?

Oops, that's a different type of belly mold

Here it is

They work great with bulls-eye corner blocks for some real extra flair. Also, there are a lot of taller baseboard moldings available. I personally like updating the old colonial baseboard to a 5 1/4" Speed Base.

PAINT

Use semi-gloss white paint for the trim.
When choosing a trim paint, most use either oil or latex (acrylic). Oil paint gives a smoother finish but can sag if applied to heavily. It can take more coats to cover and is harder to clean up as well. Latex paint works well but can show more brush marks as it dries faster. The upside is that it cleans up very easily with water. Either works, pick your poison.
When it comes to wall color, It's all about personal preference but if you frame it in white trim? I guarantee it'll look a lot more like the magazines you probably first saw the color in.

When choosing a wall paint, USE LATEX FLAT ENAMEL.

Paint comes in a lot of different sheens such as:

• Gloss
• Semi-gloss 
• Eggshell
• Satin
• Flat 

and the one sheen we can never seem get away from.....

When you're painting interior walls, 99% of the time these walls (much like Charlie Sheen) are NOT going to be perfect. They never are, learn to accept it (Charlie has). Walls are usually built over wooden studs which crown, twist and bend. The seams of most wallboard are hand smoothed with either plaster or joint compound. Even the best plastered wall rarely holds up to a straight-edge.
Here's the problem: Higher gloss paints reflect light and when light hits those newly painted walls?
You guessed it... you see the imperfections.

Walls painted with a FLAT paint aren't nearly as reflective so they do a great job of hiding a lot of those little inconsistencies which will help your walls appear smooth and give your room a cleaner look. The reason I suggest flat ENAMEL is because certain walls tend to get more abuse.
In the past, a lot of painters would use an Eggshell paint in bathrooms & bedrooms. It was more durable and helped protect against the higher humidity you find in bathrooms and also in places where little hand-prints had a tendency to show up on walls.
Enamel paint has a lot of the same durability qualities as an Eggshell but none of it's reflective qualities so you can still scrub it a bit without pulling the paint off of the wall or ruining the finish.

When it comes to paint manufacturers, I was always a Benjamin Moore fan. Sherman Williams was a close second but since Home Depot acquired Behr Paints, they've made a lot of effort to make it a worthy competitor at a reasonable price. I've had great success using the Behr premium interior as well as exterior lines of paint. Their Premium Plus Ultra all-in-one primer & paint makes a lot of tough walls very easy to cover with only a couple of coats, a helpful quality for amateur painters.

Lastly, when it comes to ceilings? I always prefer flat white.
It keeps the room feeling open and airy which is especially helpful in a room with a lower ceiling height. Try to use a decent grade of ceiling paint so that it won't take as many coats to make your roller marks disappear.

LET'S REVIEW!

1. Wide trim in semi-gloss white
2. Flat enamel latex walls
3. Flat white ceilings

Hey, guess what? You've learned the secrets of The Pottery Barn Effect! 
Make sure all of your outlets, receptacles and switch plates are all updated in white as well to tie the room together.

If you don't have any experience replacing outlets or switches, I always suggest you call a professional or Ask A Home Improvement Expert!
Jennifer H., I hope that answered your question and I really hope the ugly room picture I posted wasn't your house. Actually? I hope it was... someone seriously needs to paint that room.

-Cheers!

FLOOR TILE: Does SIZE matter?

Janice T. sent this question to Ask A Home Improvement Expert:

"We've been thinking about changing the tile in our bathroom but we aren't sure which size tile we should use. Is smaller tile better for a bathroom?"

 

That's a great question!.... and it's nice to finally have a woman ask a man if size matters.
My personal opinion is that the more grout lines you have, the busier a floor looks. A lot of people grew up looking at their parents bathrooms with tiny mosaic tiles and mauve colored fixtures.
You've seen how your parents used to dress, do you really want to use their sense of style as a point of reference?

                                                        

{{{shiver}}} Yikes......Anyway, I always start by trying to use the largest tile I can in a given room. The reason I start here as I said, is that more grout lines make a floor look busier and unfortunately
Busier = Smaller. I don't want a small room to feel even smaller, I want it to feel spacious and open. Larger tiles can make a small bathroom feel bigger. There is no rule saying you can't use 18" x 18" tiles in a 50 sq. ft. bathroom. It's all about the look you are trying to create. However! There are a few issues that can potentially sway the choice of tile size that  you should always take into account.

How level are your floors?

Run a level over your floor before you make any decisions to spot the inconsistencies in your floor and to see which way it may be pitching. Smaller tiles have the ability to conform to these inconsistencies. In a perfect world, you'd never want to have a floor with a lot of pitches and rolls but often in homes that are 150-200 years old, the best you can hope for is to minimize the motion of the floor. If you tried to get it back to perfectly level, you'd likely end up with a floor that's much higher in some areas than you want. This is especially troublesome when the doorway transition ends up being over an inch out of level (unless you enjoy watching your friends trip in and out of your bathroom). In these cases, we are try to get the floor to be as FLAT as possible... not as LEVEL.
Larger tiles such as an 18" x 18" are more difficult to lay flat due to the fact that each tile covers so much floor space. If the area you're working is a little higher in the middle of where a tile lands, you may find that corners of your tiles are left sitting up higher than you would like. Sometimes adjusting the layout of where your grout lines will land can help work around some of these problem areas.

Desired Effect

Is there any other tile in your room? If there is a specific tile pattern on your walls or shower, it may dictate how you want to approach your floor. There are common styles that people are trying to recreate or achieve that can help determine the floor tile. For example, A subway wall pattern: We often see a smaller mosaic tile pattern with subway-style tiled walls.

There are no hard and fast rules but, there are applications that you may have seen and are subconsciously trying to recreate.

If you are simply looking to update your floor, I  would suggest picking color before size. It's often more important to get the color you desire and you may find that the color you love? Isn't available in every size and shape. Your question may be answered before you ask it!

Bathroom usage

Is this a bathroom that gets a lot of family use? If it is, I would point out that for every grout line you create is also one you need to maintain. Grout needs to be cleaned and sealed according to usage, sometimes as often as once a year. A full bathroom with 5 family members and a dog that  you can't seem to keep clean no matter how many times you wrap him in plastic, will be subject to more water and soil on the floor than a half-bath connected to a guest room. (I'm kidding, don't wrap your dog in plastic.....kids are optional)
Fewer grout lines can also mean fewer possible areas for moisture to get through to the substrate if those grout lines ever open up over time. Remember: More grout lines = More maintenance.

Grout color

Grout color will affect your choice as well. There are two ways to go with grout color, one that blends or one that pops. Both have their advantages in certain situations but more often I try to find a grout color that blends with the color of the tile itself. This helps keep whatever floor tile I choose feeling like one consistent floor not like a bunch of smaller pieces. I see this mistake a lot, a bad grout color choice making a floor look too broken up. Example:

I also tend to avoid very light grout colors in favor of more neutrals because lighter grout colors are much more difficult to maintain and they discolor quickly. I only use white & off-white grout when it's specific to the effect the customer desires. Which brings me to my last point:

Personal preference

What do you like? I always ask potential customers to pick out a few pictures of bathroom floors that they think are cool. When a customer shows me three pictures of bathrooms all with larger style tiles or perhaps all with a particular pattern, it makes finding their solution simpler. Sometimes I even find they don't like the floors they've shown me at all, they actually like the color, layout or style of a room. It's important that whatever you pick works with the room itself and when in doubt? I would suggest that something simple, clean and neutral often works better than something bold and intricate. It also allows you to update other elements of the room over time without limiting your choices.

So, there are no universal answers but there are certainly considerations in making your choice. Try to ask yourself these questions before you make a decision or Ask A Home Improvement Expert!

As always, I'm Daniel and I'm a General Contractor. (<--- and that's still a link)

-Cheers!

CAPTCHA: Why Do You Hate Me?

I remember a simpler time when the worst thing about spam was how to get it out of the can. Apparently, it's a much bigger problem now because every time I try to do anything online I get hit with a CAPTCHA. It stands for "Completely Automated Public Turing test to tell Computers and Humans Apart" and it was designed to cut down on SPAM (flooding the internet with copies of the same message). It stops software programs from abusing services and minimizes automated postings to blogs and such. 

You've all seen them. That tiny box of fuzzy words that you have to type in to virtually everything nowadays. It's sole purpose is to prove that you're an actual human being to complete your submission. Wonderful.

Here's my problem:

I'M HUMAN AND I CAN'T TELL WHAT THOSE WORDS ARE!

Let me give you a window into the hell that is my life. Just this morning, I was downloading a picture to use for an article and I was hit with this CAPTCHA:

Okay, this is no problem. It looks like "i" then.... wait, is that an "o"? I think it is. What if it isn't? I don't want to get this wrong and have to retype my information. 
Hang on, they have a little recycle button just to the right of the submission box. Let me hit that and get new words:

Huh? Why are those numbers are upside down? Do I type them in that order or am I supposed to flip them and type them in the other way? Hang on, let me get a new one:

Whoa! What's that inkblot on the right? How do I.... is that....... am I supposed to type that? Im really confused, this is starting to feel like a Rorschach Test. 
Wait, there is a little speaker button there! Will that let me HEAR what I'm supposed to type? That's perfect! Let me hit that button....

 *SATANIC-BACKWARDS-MASKING-EVIL-IS-UPON-US-I-HEAR-DEAD-PEOPLE!!!*

OH MY GOD!!............... That was a HUGE mistake!!............................Let's just stick to the letters! 

*hitting the recycle button again*

 

Come On!! I don't even know what language that second part is! Do I even have a key on my keyboard for that?? NEXT!

ARE YOU SERIOUS RIGHT NOW?? What the HELL is that?! That's not even a word, its a PICTURE!! Is that a building?? Do I type in "building"?? Why is it so out of focus and why are they showing me pictures?! NEXT!!

STOP!! I can read it!! YES! Oh dear Lord thank you.... Thank you!.... Stay right there, let me just type that in, 'passage toniets'.....

"Incorrect security code entered, please try again"

Wait, what?? Oh God no... I typed it in wrong! I had the perfect CAPTCHA and I blew it! I BLEW IT!! Please, please, please.... I'm begging you, give me another easy one. I won't ever talk bad about CAPTCHA again if you just give me one more easy one..... pretty please......

*Hitting recycle with my eyes shut*

........... I so hate you right now......................

Daniel Batal is a Remodeling Contractor and owner at Focalpoint Renovations



Image: David Castillo Dominici / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

7 Amazing Gadgets You Must Have!

What does a Contractor do on a very rainy Wednesday morning? He surfs the internet and finds the coolest stuff ever and shares it with you! May I present my Top 7 in no particular order (I thought five wasn't enough and ten was just plain excessive...)

The Jellyfish Aquarium

Forget the shark tank, here's a 7 gallon acrylic tank that comes with it's own built in lighting and filtration system from Jelly Fish Art.  The entry level package with one moon jellyfish and a 3 month supply of food starts at $382.00, but if your wallet is feeling particularly fat, you can opt for the $709.00 deluxe package. 
Deluxe package Includes:

•     Desktop Jellyfish Tank
•     3× Large Moon Jellyfish
•     12 Month Food Supply
•     2× Red Leg Hermit Crab
•     2× Cleaner Snail
•     Algae Cleaner Magnet
•     Water Quality Test Kit
•     Aquarium Salt (10 Gal)
•     Water Heater
•     Floating Thermometer
•     Nutrafin Cycle 1oz
•     Clear Vacuum Hose
•     Substrate

No mention of having a second person to pee on you in case you get stung.... It would be worth having just to say to people, "I have to get home to feed my jellyfish" and watch the expressions on their faces. In fact, you could capture those expressions with this...

iPhone Tri-lens

 

If you're an aspiring photographer or just want to make your iPhone look like it's having its eyes checked.... this quirky little device from Photojojo might rank high on your list of 'must-haves'. The iPhone lens dial spins to offer three optical-quality coated glass lenses: Telephoto, Wide Angle and Fish-eye. The aluminum housing also comes equipped with a tripod mount for landscape and portrait shots. Priced at $249.00 (that's only $83/lens if you're trying to justify buying one) Or maybe you prefer something a little more silly...

BANG! (Shoot the light out)

My girlfriend spotted this one from Bitplay. It's as simple as it looks. This desk lamp comes with a gun shaped remote that you "shoot" the light on and off with. When the lamp is shot to OFF, the lampshade tilts to the side in its "wounded" position.... The shade stands back up and the light comes on when in reverse. All this fun can be yours for a mere $336.00. Okay, maybe that one was too silly. Maybe you prefer something more suited to your sophisticated tastes. How about this inconspicuous device:

Nest Thermostat

"Daniel, what's so cool about a thermostat?" Well, nothing usually but this Nest Thermostat only needs you to adjust two settings: Up & Down. Over the course of about a week, it creates a program based on the temperature changes you've made. It continuously adapts to your adjustments and offers information such as how long it will actually take before you room comes up to the desired temperature. It also signals energy saving actions with its 'Nest Leaf' logo whenever you perform them. Much like the Terminator, this is a learning machine, but this machine will cost you $249.00. Speaking of the Terminator, let's replicate something...

MakerBot 3D Replicator

 

Tired of two dimensional printing? Why not make your prints come to life with The MakerBot Replicator™,  the ultimate personal 3D printer. MakerBot gives you the ability to extrude your design in single or dual-color ABS plastic with a build space equal to the size of a loaf of bread. The best part about this device is the list of warnings it comes with on the website. I haven't seen such a potentially dangerous device since the Flux Capacitor or...... the Easy-Bake Oven. Just imagine what trouble you could cause for only $1,749.00. What, do you think dangerously cool gadgets are all too expensive? Well then, take a gander at this...

Evergreen Mp3 Player

 

Haven't we seen enough mp3 players? Yup, but the "DN-2000" from Evergreen can attach to your keychain and plays music directly from SD-memory cards (1GB max) for up to 5 hours on a single AAA battery. Those stats may not be very impressive, but this one is... The price: $8.50. It's the closest I've seen to a disposable digital music player. I'm sorry, are you too old-school for digital music? Maybe this next one is more your speed....

Soundwagon Portable Mini Record Player

The name says it all. Tired of watching your vinyl spin? Why not give them a break and let the Soundwagon do it for a change. This officially licensed VW minibus model is a fully-functional, battery powered phonograph player. It's contains a needle, amplifier and speaker that will run laps around your LP's... that's if your brave enough to turn your precious collection into a race track. $99.00 puts you behind the wheel of this micro-magic......

So, there are my top 7. I'm always on the look out for anything cool and unusual so please, feel free to drop a comment or link below if you've got something unique or kooky that we should all know about... like a machine to make it stop raining.

Cheers!

Bathroom Toilet Repair: The Smell from Hell

I received a question from Samuel C. asking: "I have a constant smell in my bathroom I can't seem to find or fix. Any suggestions?"

Yes.... Flush when you're done.

No, I'm kidding Sam.
What you are most likely smelling are sewer gasses. All of the drains in your bathroom lead to a central drain that takes waste-water out of your house to either a city sewer line or a leach field depending on where you live. Those drain lines can contain sewer gasses such as Methane, hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, sulfur dioxide and more.

The way we stop those gasses from coming back into your house is by means of a "trap". What's a trap? 
A trap is when a woman asks you if an outfit makes her look heavy..... It's also a U-shaped bend in the drain line that "traps" water creating a barrier between you and the open sewer system.

The Usual Suspects:

In a full bathroom there are typically three traps:

1. One under the sink (which is often located in the vanity cabinet)
2. One under the tub/shower (which is usually hidden in the floor)
3. One in the toilet (This one is actually built into the toilet itself)

One or more of these could be causing that smell. Typically, if a sink trap is faulty, you will see signs of water damage below the trap suggesting it's not holding water as it should. That would show up in the vanity cabinet floor. For the tub/shower it can be trickier as the trap is enclosed and may show signs of leaking in the ceiling below if it's a second floor bathroom.

All of that being said, the first place I always check and the most likely candidate is the toilet and let me explain why. 
As I mentioned, the toilet has a built-in trap. This trap allows the toilet to maintain the water level inside the bowl. If there was no trap, the water would just flow down the drain and the toilet bowl would be empty and dry. When a toilet is installed, it's placed onto a floor drain using a wax ring gasket.


The wax ring is used to seal the drain outlet on the bottom of the toilet to the drain opening in the floor. When a toilet is installed, the ring is placed onto the drain... the toilet is dropped onto the ring... and the toilet bolts (also known as closet bolts) are tightened enough to lock the toilet in place. If that wax gasket ring starts to fail or isn't seated properly? Sewer gasses can sneak out from under your toilet causing your bathroom to have that suspicious smell. It can also cause water to escape, sometimes invisibly, with each flush potentially damaging the floor hidden under the toilet.

How To Repair A Toilet Gasket: 

1) Turn off the water supply to your toilet

2) Flush the toilet and hold the handle down to drain as much water from the tank & bowl as possible

3) Disconnect the water supply line

4) Disconnect the two closet bolts holding the toilet to the floor

5) Lift the toilet straight up and off and place it to the side. Try to lay either old towels or a drop-cloth underneath as the wax ring can be stuck to the underside and make a mess of whatever it touches. Also, It's hard to get all of the water out of the toilet without pumping it and any tilting will cause it to spill out from underneath. 

6) You'll now see the drain flange on the floor. Scrape any excess wax off of the flange to prepare it for a new wax ring.
I suggest buying a jumbo ring with a built-in flange to get the best seal. They often come with new closet bolts in case your old ones are junk.

7) Be sure to inspect and clean the bottom outlet of the toilet to remove any excess wax that may be stuck to the toilet. BE CAREFUL! As I mentioned, when you tip the toilet excess water WILL spill out. I like to take the toilet into the tub or shower for this maneuver if possible. Also, the wax that the rings are made out of can make a mess of anything it comes in contact with. Do your best not to get it on you, your floors, your dog.... your children.

8) Set the new wax gasket in place on the floor, position the closet bolts so they are straight up and ready for the toilet. 

9) Drop the toilet in place making sure the bolts slide up through both holes in the base of the toilet and press down. You should feel the toilet raised from the floor as you press it down a bit into place till the base touches the floor. That's the wax gasket ring getting squished down and creating the seal you need. If the toilet hits the floor with a clunk, the gap between the drain flange and toilet outlet may have been to big for the wax ring to seal. You may need to stack a secondary standard wax ring on top to create a seal (this isn't ideal, I'd rather have a new toilet flange installed at the proper height but, it's not uncommon).

10) Tighten down the closet bolts making sure NOT to use too much torque. You aren't installing tires on a race car here so, take it easy Mr. Goodwrench. You just want to hold the toilet in place, not crack the porcelain base of the toilet or damage the drain flange.

11) Reconnect the water supply, turn on the water and let the tank fill back up.

12) Flush a few times to make sure things are sealed and no water is leaking out and voila.... you've successfully re-installed your toilet with a proper seal.

Sometimes there can be complications of broken toilet flanges, closet bolts or rotted sub-flooring. If you find any of that in your situation, it will need to be repaired before reinstalling the toilet.
Best of luck and if you have any other questions, be sure to Ask A Home Improvement Expert!

Cheers!



 


Image: Marco Torresin / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

ASK A HOME IMPROVEMENT EXPERT!

We've added a new feature to our website, "Ask a Home Improvement Expert".
It's designed to allow any of you with a DIY (Do It Yourself) question to submit it to Focalpoint Renovations along with your name and email address.

We will respond to all questions within 48 hours and do our best to answer every question you might have about how to do something or more importantly, how NOT to do something!

Drop us a line and see if we can answer something for you!
The best questions and answers will be posted here on our blog so that others may read them as well.

Cheers!

Home Improvement Stores: Are They Really An Improvement?

     I was in Lowe's the other day looking at pre-finished flooring trying to compare their off-the-shelf products to another company that I like to use, Lumber Liquidators.  I was checking out the open boxes and inspecting the individual pieces, trying to eyeball how clean, straight and consistent they were so I could approximate the actual waste expected per box, then it hit me.... What the hell am I doing?
I mean that in the nicest and broadest senses of the words but seriously, what the hell was I doing?
I know so many hardwood flooring suppliers, why am I here doing renovation recon?
Was I getting paid to investigate these materials? No.
Do I gain anything from this process? No, well ...Yes. I gain the advantage of knowing what products are available to my customers and at what price.
Does this knowledge make me more money? This is where it gets tricky...

     There was a time, not so long ago, when their wasn't such a thing as a Home Depot or a Lowe's. There were local supply houses that contractors would order their materials from. The thought of a homeowner coming to a supply house to investigate pricing on flooring, or furnaces, or roofing materials wasn't unheard of... but it certainly wasn't a common strategy. As a matter of fact, most supply houses used to offer slightly reduced contractor pricing to try and cover the costs of estimating, ordering and delivery that contractors have to do on a daily basis and give contractors some room to breathe just in case an overzealous homeowner came in looking to beat down a builder.

     Now things are differen't. A homeowner can walk into a Home Improvement center and casually stroll through the aisles, gaining vast amounts of information about the prices of available materials for their homes. They can even casually glance at the bannered pricing campaigns that say things like, "Whole house carpet installation for only $37.00!" (I bet you think I made that up, I thought you might. Here's the ad from 2 seconds ago): 

Let me stop here.
Does anyone really believe that an entire house can be carpeted for thirty-seven dollars? I mean, seriously... even if only two guys show up to do the install and they only get paid $10.00/hour and somehow manage to carpet and clean up your whole house in an 8 hour day.... that's still $10 x 8(hrs) x 2(guys)= $160.00.... and that doesn't cover any of the delivery or fuel expenses. This math isn't adding up.
First of all, there must be a tremendous mark-up on the carpet you're buying for them to be able to offer this service.
Second of all, catch words like "Basic Installation" usually mean things like

• You want us to take the old carpet out? That's extra
• You want us to dispose of the old carpet? That's extra
• You wan't the old, moldy & stained padding removed from under your carpet? That's extra
• You want new padding installed? That's extra
• You have stairs you want carpeted in your house? That's extra
• You wan't us to walk up those stairs to carpet your second floor? That's extra

Basically speaking, nobody ever qualifies for "Basic installation"...

What's difficult for contractors is that most homeowners never get to that stage of questioning. They see a sign that says "Whole house carpet installation for only $37.00" and often call a contractor saying... "I've found the carpet I like and know the price I can buy it for. Can YOU carpet my whole house for $37.00?"        The answer, of course, is No.

Let me come right out and say this: No professional can carpet an entire house for $37.00.

     I don't care if your house is 15 feet long x 15 feet wide, one room, no kitchen, just a bed on the floor with a hot-plate, a bag of stale Cheetos and a sleeping bag....  It'll cost more than $37.00 to have someone install your flooring. I say this so that homeowners can have a more realistic expectation of what a good contractor will cost. 
     As a matter of fact, I'll drop this little tid-bit of advice out there to chew on... in most cases, expect to pay at least as much for labor as you do materials. Sound crazy? Let me blow this by you: If you find an Andersen Frenchwood patio door for $1,000.00 that you'd like to use to replace the sliding glass door that's falling off of your house? Expect to pay at least that much in labor to remove the old one, prep the opening, install the new door and remove all debris.
If you find a good deal on pre-finished 2 1/4" maple flooring at only $3.25/square foot? Expect to pay all of that per square foot in installation costs and even more if there is a floor that needs to be removed before this new-lovely can be installed.

     This is the real world, and sometimes I think people just love the idea of a great deal. They have learned NOT to believe the car commercial that says, "You can be driving this car for only $37.00 a week!" because many of us have figured out that you have to put a significant amount of money down... then qualify for a very specific set of credit terms... then opt to buy a very specific vehicle that often isn't available once you've jumped through the first two hoops bringing that $37.00/week purchase right back to a more common $385/month car payment.

     Which brings me all the way back to Lowe's, staring at flooring, wondering if this is the right product for my customer...
Why am I doing this? Because I want to have the most informed answers for my customers.
Does this pay off? It does when my company is hired to do a job because we know more about what's available and have advice on product lines.
Has the advent of warehouse home improvement companies made contracting more difficult? INFINITELY!
     Does all of this knowledge make me more money? I think you have to be able to defend your estimate prices against all competition. You have to be able to explain to a potential customer that perhaps your "more expensive" estimate covers things that would be an "extra" on another companies estimate. Sometimes, it's better to know how everyone else is doing business for no other reason than to feel confident about doing business your way.

As always, I'm Daniel and I don't model..... I REMODEL! <--- (you're just dying to click it.... go ahead, nobody's looking... I dare you.)

Cheers!